SESAMULS® WO

Cold processable wo emulsifier for water in oil emulsions

INCI name

Polyglyceryl-6 Pentaoleate, Sesamum Indicum (Sesame) Seed Oil, Malic Acid

SESAMULS® WO is a water in oil emulsifier obtained from renewable sources through the esterifcation of polyglycerin-6 to olive oil fatty acids whereas the natural Malic Acid acts as a catalyst.

It allows rich emulsions with a nourishing feel. Easy to use, also in cold processing, and well-tolerated by the skin, it is remarkably versatile in terms of formulation and compatibility with all active ingredients

SESAMULS® WO is ideal in sun care products for mineral filters dispersion and improves makeup products shine.

WO IN SUNCARE APPLICATION

Three WO suncare systems SPF 30 (theoretical) were formulated with mineral UV filters and the respective emulsifier at the suggested concentrations. The spectrophotometric determination of static SPF (Fig. 1) reveals that OLEAMULS® WO provides SPF boosting properties ensuring the adequate protection.

A sunscreen product is labelled “water resistant” (WR) if the effectiveness of its SPF, following 2 immersions in water, each 20 minutes in length, is greater than 50% of its initial SPF. SESAMULS® WO outperforms the benchmark in maintaing water resistance getting very close to the maximum level (Fig. 2).

Bar charts comparing static SPF values and water resistance between Sesamuls WO, Oleamuls WO, and a benchmark.

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100% plant-derived raw materials.
Ideal for nourishing emulsions for sensitive and dry skins manufactured via cold processing technique in alternative to the Water in Oil (WO) PEG emulsifier.
It stabilizes emulsion viscosity even in presence of lipid phases with different polarities. Does not require co-emulsifiers.
Compatible under extreme anionic and cationic conditions across a wide range of pH values (pH 3-9).
It facilitates the dispersion of any sort of powder, from titanium dioxide to iron oxides, and it functions as a shine enhancer that improves the shine of make-up products.
Emulsions are easily absorbed and, despite being rich in natural lipids, neither greasy nor sticky.
Soluble in ethanol, mineral and vegetal oils, fatty acids, fatty alcohols and their derivatives.

ORIGIN

Ester of Polyglycerol with Olive Oil’s fatty acids and Sesame Oil

Appearance	Viscous oily liquid
Colour	Amber
Odour	Characteristic
HLB	6 (experimental)
Acid Total Number	7 (mg KOH/g)
Saponification number	165 – 185 (mg KOH/g)
Dry residue (105°C)	97 – 99 %

Moisturizing and nourishing creams for face and body care, even for the most sensitive skin types. Excellent dispersal of chemical and physical UV filters, as well as coloring pigments for make up.