SESAMULS® WO is a water-in-oil emulsifier derived from renewable sources, produced by esterification of polyglycerin-6 with olive oil fatty acids and malic acid obtained from upcycled, non-edible vegetable waste from apple processing. It enables the formulation of rich W/O emulsions with a nourishing sensory profile.
Suitable also for cold processing, SESAMULS® WO combines ease of use with high formulation versatility, broad compatibility with cosmetic active ingredients, and good skin tolerability.
3.0–6.0%, depending on oil polarity and formulation balance.
20–30% for the best balance of stability and processability; Higher oil phase levels can be incorporated, with a progressive reduction in viscosity; in these systems, a rheological stabilizer for the external oil phase is required.
Suitable for medium- to high-polarity oils, such as esters and triglycerides. Lower-polarity emollients, including alkanes and ethers, can also be used, provided that suitable stabilizers are included when they represent the entire oil phase.
1.0% Magnesium Sulfate Heptahydrate recommended for emulsion stability. 2.0–5.0% polyols, such as glycerin, recommended. For systems with high water content (e.g. around 70%), the addition of a low level of rheology modifier in the aqueous phase is recommended to help prevent water separation.
Can be processed by standard hot emulsification; cold processing may require additional stabilization. In cold-processed systems, external phase stabilizier (such as Zinc Stearate, dispersed in the oil phase), can help improve stability.
Three WO suncare systems SPF 30 (theoretical) were formulated with mineral UV filters and the respective emulsifier at the suggested concentrations. The spectrophotometric determination of static SPF (Fig. 1) reveals that OLEAMULS® WO provides SPF boosting properties ensuring the adequate protection.
A sunscreen product is labelled “water resistant” (WR) if the effectiveness of its SPF, following 2 immersions in water, each 20 minutes in length, is greater than 50% of its initial SPF. SESAMULS® WO outperforms the benchmark in maintaing water resistance getting very close to the maximum level (Fig. 2).
Ester of Polyglycerol with Olive Oil’s fatty acids and Sesame Oil
| Appearance | Viscous oily liquid |
| Colour | Amber |
| Odour | Characteristic |
| HLB | 6 (experimental) |
| Acid Total Number | 7 (mg KOH/g) |
| Saponification number | 165 – 185 (mg KOH/g) |
| Dry residue (105°C) | 97 – 99 % |
Moisturizing and nourishing creams for face and body care, even for the most sensitive skin types. Excellent dispersal of chemical and physical UV filters, as well as coloring pigments for make up.
