OLEAMULS® WO

Cold processable water in oil emulsifier

INCI name

Polyglyceryl-6 Pentaoleate

OLEAMULS® WO is a non-ionic Water in Oil emulsifying system obtained from upcycled and not edible vegetal waste from olive oil production and Polyglycerol from vegetable glycerin.

Easy to use, also in cold processing, it is remarkably versatile in terms of formulation and compatibility with all active ingredients and well-tolerated by the skin.

Recommended oil phase

Ideally between 20–30% for optimal stability and processability. Higher oil phase levels can be incorporated, with a progressive reduction in viscosity; in such systems, the use of a rheological stabilizer for the external oil phase may be required to maintain adequate structure and ensure emulsion stability.

Oil compatibility

Best compatibility with medium to high-polarity oils, such as esters and triglycerides. Lower-polarity emollients, including alkanes and ethers, can also be used, provided suitable stabilizers are included when they represent the entire oil phase (e.g. Hydrogenated Castor Oil, metallic stearates, organoclay gels).

Aqueous phase

1.0% Magnesium Sulfate Heptahydrate recommended as stabilizing electrolyte. 2.0–5.0% polyols, such as glycerin, recommended. For high water content systems (e.g. ~70%), the addition of a low level of rheology modifier in the aqueous phase is advised to help prevent water separation (e.g. 0.2–0.3% xanthan gum).

Processing

Suitable for standard hot emulsification; cold processing may require additional stabilization, such as the use of an external phase stabilizer (e.g. Zinc Stearate, dispersed in the oil phase).

WO IN SUNCARE APPLICATION

Three WO suncare systems SPF 30 (theoretical) were formulated with mineral UV filters and the respective emulsifier at the suggested concentrations. The spectrophotometric determination of static SPF (Fig. 1) reveals that OLEAMULS® WO provides SPF boosting properties ensuring the adequate protection.

A sunscreen product is labelled “water resistant” (WR) if the effectiveness of its SPF, following 2 immersions in water, each 20 minutes in length, is greater than 50% of its initial SPF. SESAMULS® WO outperforms the benchmark in maintaing water resistance getting very close to the maximum level (Fig. 2).

Bar charts comparing static SPF values and water resistance between Sesamuls WO, Oleamuls WO, and a benchmark.

request a sample

Non-ionic W/O emulsifier made from 100% plant-derived, palm-free raw materials.
Enables the development of stable water-in-oil emulsions with oil phases starting from 20–25%, including systems based on natural oils.
Suitable for both hot and cold processing, offering high formulation versatility and compatibility with a wide range of active ingredients.
Allows the creation of rich yet elegant emulsions with a less greasy skin feel, uncommon for traditional W/O systems.
Particularly suitable for sun care and color cosmetic applications requiring water resistance and long wear.

ORIGIN

Ester of Polyglycerol with Olive Oil’s fatty acids

Appearance	Viscous Oily liquid
Colour	Amber
Odour	Characteristic
HLB	6 (experimental)
Dry residue	95 – 97 %.
Acid Total Number	5 max. (mg KOH/g)
Saponification number	120 – 163 (mg KOH/g)

Ideal for dry skin products, baby skin products and sun care products. It can be used to formulate emultions for sensitive skins, baby care, sun care and color cosmetics