emulsifiers

SESAMULS® OW

Liquid crystals emulsifier for dimethicone-like textures

INCI name

Polyglyceryl-3 Cetyl Ether, Sesamum Indicum (Sesame) Seed Oil, Malic Acid

     

 

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SESAMULS® OW is a non-ionic Oil in Water emulsifying systems derived from renewable sources, including Malic Acid from upcycled and not edible vegetal waste from apple processing, designed to obtain rich and dimethicone-like
texture with a powdery skin-feel easy to absorb.

Its non-ionic behavior makes it compatible in weakly cationic environment (e.g. conditioner and hair cream). The structural interaction between the hydrophilic moiety and the lipophilic chain enables the formation of highly stable liquid crystalline emulsions with improved moisturizing efficacy.

Used at 3% to 6%, it enables the incorporation of a polar or medium-polar oil phase, including systems in which natural oils are used as the sole lipid source. It is recommended for emulsions within the usual cosmetic pH range and remains
effective even under more acidic or alkaline conditions.

SESAMULS® OW enables the development of creams and cosmetic milks without the inclusion of additional ethoxylated hydrophilic co-emulsifiers.
Its use level should be adjusted according to the desired viscosity profile of the final emulsion and the amount of oil phase to be incorporate.

Recommended emulsification procedure

  • Melt the oily phase at 70°C.
  • Add SESAMULS® OW to the aqueous phase heating until
    melting.
  • Add the oily phase to the heated aqueous phase while
    mixing.
  • Process the product thoroughly using a turbo-emulsifier.
  • Stir until temperature reaches about 40°C to add preservative system, fragrance and thermolabile active ingredients.
  • Process with the turbo-emulsifier and stir until cooling.
  • 100% plant-derived O/W emulsifier derived from renewable sources, including malic acid from upcycled apple processing.
  • Designed as a natural alternative to PEG-based emulsifiers, it enables the development of emulsions with a rich, dimethicone-like texture and a powdery skin feel.
  • Forms stable liquid crystal emulsions with improved moisturization efficacy.
  • Compatible in weakly cationic environments and with a wide range of active ingredients.
  • Suitable for incorporating polar to medium-polar oil phases, including systems based on natural oils.

ORIGIN

Ester of Polyglycerol with Sesame Oil’s fatty acids

 
   Appearance Flakes
   Colour Ivory
   Odour Characteristic
   HLB 12 (experimental)
   pH 6.0 – 8.0
   Melting point 55 – 60°C
   Acid Total Number 28 max. (mg KOH/g)
   Saponification number 140 – 160 (mg KOH/g)

Ideal for day and night creams, and emulsions for mature and sensitive skins products.

% OF USE: 3.0 – 5.0% in cosmetic milks or lotions

% OF USE: 4.0 – 6.0% in creams

 

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