HYDRO-B18®, a water-soluble form of 18-ß-glycyrrhetinic acid, is a transparent, odorless, straw-yellow liquid with a neutral pH. It’s soluble in water, glycerol, and propanediol. Used in skin care and personal hygiene, it enhances penetration, reduces redness, soothes itching, and moisturizes.
With tensioactive and self-emulsifying properties, it stabilizes emulsions and offers antibacterial and anti-inflammatory effects. Suitable for sensitive skin, it’s effective in products targeting edema and under-eye bags.
HYDRO-B18® forms larger, stiffer micelles, reducing interaction with the skin barrier, and integrates well with advanced delivery systems like liposomes and nanoemulsions. It meets BDIH and COSMOS criteria.
ERYTHEMA INDEX REDUCTION
HYDRO-B18® shows a soothing efficacy proven by in-vivo tests.
The erythema was induced by applying 20 μl/cm2 of a 3.5% solution of sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS). The graph shows the effect of the application of HYDRO-B18®, Bisalbolol and Ammonium Gycyrrhizate, after 4 hours, 24 hours and 48 hours from patch removal
HYDRO-B18® reduces the erythema index: -17% after 48h, -21% after 72h: more than standard Bisabolol and Ammonium Glycyrrhizate.
TRANS EPIDERMAL WATER LOSS
HYDRO-B18® reduces the TEWL index as shown in the graph: -16% after 48h (two applications), as standard Bisabolol and Ammonium Glycyrrhizate.
We can conclude that HYDRO-B18® shows a soothing efficacy after the exposure to the irritating agent SLS.
18-β-glycyrrhetinic acid, glycyrrhizin, and their derivatives are deemed safe for cosmetic use by the CIR Expert Panel. With a long history and confirmed effectiveness by modern pharmacology, these ingredients are versatile in cosmetics.
HYDRO-B18®, with high purity, is safe and eases quality control in formulations. Its development addresses the challenges of solubility and selective release of 18-β-glycyrrhetinic acid, making it a valuable ingredient in products for sensitive skin, including those with atopic, allergic, or contact dermatitis, affirming its importance in the evolving cosmetic landscape.