Actives hydrosolutions

AZELACTIVE®

Azelaic Acid Performance
Without Azelaic Acid Limits
In a Patented Polymer

Anti-Dark Spots – Sebum Regulating & Acne Preventing – Soothing & Anti-Redness – Anti-Hair Loss

INCI name

Polyglyceryl-6 Azelate

   

 

 
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Close-up of golden wheat spikes, a natural ingredient used in AZELACTIVE® for skincare.

Azelaic Acid: Cosmetic Relevance and Technical Limits

Azelaic acid is widely used in cosmetic formulations for acne-prone, seborrheic, uneven and redness-prone skin.

Despite its well-established efficacy, free azelaic acid presents formulation challenges:

  • Limited water solubility
  • Strong pH dependency
  • Potential irritation at higher effective concentrations

These limitations may affect formulation flexibility, stability and skin tolerability.

A POLYMERIC APPROACH TO AZELAIC ACID EFFICIENCY

AZELACTIVE® is a patented azelaic acid polymer (40% w/w) esterified to a polyglyceryl-6 backbone, creating a fully water-dispersible system.

This structural design:

  • Improves solubility in water
  • Enhances compatibility across pH 2–8
  • Increases formulation stability
  • Markedly lowers acid number (20 vs ~600 mg KOH/g)

By reducing acid reactivity, AZELACTIVE® supports improved skin compatibility while preserving functional activity.

Comparison of raw azelaic acid powder and AZELACTIVE® polymeric solution in water.

This visual comparison illustrates how the polymeric design of AZELACTIVE® translates into effective water compatibility under cosmetic conditions, eliminating the solubility limitations typically associated with azelaic acid.

AZELACTIVE® polymeric azelaic acid stability across pH 2 to 8.

Unlike salified forms requiring strict pH adjustment, AZELACTIVE® maintains consistent solubility and stability without precipitation or recrystallization, supporting formulation robustness across skin-friendly conditions.

In Vivo Clinical Evaluation vs Azelaic Acid

Study Design

A 28-day in vivo study was conducted on women (18–45 years) with acne-prone skin. Twice daily application of:

  • 10% conventional azelaic acid
  • 5% AZELACTIVE®
  • 10% AZELACTIVE®

Azelaic Acid Equivalent

AZELACTIVE® contains 40% w/w azelaic acid chemically bound within its polymeric structure:

5% AZELACTIVE® = 2% azelaic acid equivalent
10% AZELACTIVE® = 4% azelaic acid equivalent

This equivalence provides a standardized reference framework for performance comparison.

SEBUM NORMALIZATION

Clinical graph showing sebum normalization with AZELACTIVE® compared to azelaic acid.

A statistically significant reduction in skin sebum content was observed across tested systems, accompanied by a visible decrease in surface gloss.
All treatments promoted a measurable shift from oily levels toward physiological sebum values, supporting improved skin balance.

TOTAL LESIONS REDUCTION

Total acne lesion reduction graph for AZELACTIVE® versus azelaic acid.

Total lesion count decreased across all tested systems, including both inflammatory and non-inflammatory lesions.
These results confirm a clinically relevant improvement in visible acne-related manifestations.

IMPURITY NORMALIZATION

Protoporphyrin area reduction results with AZELACTIVE® in acne-prone skin.

A reduction in protoporphyrin-associated signals was observed across tested systems, indicating modulation of follicular bacterial activity.
This reflects a positive effect on the follicular microenvironment associated with acne-prone skin.

SKIN TEXTURE IMPROVEMENT

Skin smoothness improvement results with AZELACTIVE® in clinical evaluation.

Clinically assessed smoothness increased significantly across treatments, demonstrating enhanced surface uniformity.
The observed improvement reflects a visible refinement of acne-related skin irregularities.

AZELACTIVE® achieves comparable clinical results with up to 5× lower azelaic acid equivalent levels.

This confirms the functional efficiency of the polymer-bound system under benchmark cosmetic conditions.

efficacy tests on skin

Improved skin tone evenness

REDUCED DARK SPOT PIGMENTATION

5% AZELACTIVE® significantly increased (***p<0.001) ITA° values by 44.4% at T28 up to 53.5% at T56, indicating a lighter skin tone and a reduction in dark spot intensity, markedly superior (**p<0.01) to the placebo, which showed only minimal variation. 
 
AZELACTIVE® effectively reduces dark spot pigmentation, contributing to a clinically relevant improvement in skin clarity and tone homogeneity.
 
These findings reinforce AZELACTIVE® role as a targeted skin-brightening ingredient, making it particularly suitable for formulations addressing hyperpigmentation and uneven complexion.
Before and after comparison of dark spot reduction using AZELACTIVE®. The left image (T0) shows the skin at the beginning of the study, while the right image (T56 Days) demonstrates a visible improvement in skin tone and reduction in dark spot intensity after 56 days.

REDUCED SEBUM CONTENT

5% AZELACTIVE® face cream significantly decreased (***p<0.001) skin sebum content by -12.8% at T28 and -14.7% at T56, showing long-term efficacy, greatly outperforming (**p<0.01) the placebo, which showed only minimal variation.
 
By effectively regulating sebum levels, AZELACTIVE® helps create a healthier, more balanced skin environment, particularly benefiting oily and acne-prone skin.
 
These findings position AZELACTIVE® as a powerful sebum-regulating ingredient, supporting its role in formulations aimed at improving skin texture, reducing shine, and preventing clogged pores.

improved skin complexion evenness

After 56 days of treatment, volunteers reported that AZELACTIVE® significantly improved skin clarity, uniformity, and overall appearance by effectively regulating sebum, reducing pigmentation, and enhancing complexion.
 
By the end of the study, 75% of participants observed visible improvements in skin brightness and tone uniformity, further confirming AZELACTIVE® ability to refine skin texture and correct discoloration.
 
These findings highlight AZELACTIVE® as a multifunctional ingredient, making it particularly effective for oily, uneven, and dull skin, where excess sebum and pigmentation concerns are prevalent.
Radar chart comparing the effects of AZELACTIVE® vs. a placebo on skin health. AZELACTIVE® outperforms the placebo in reducing sebum and oiliness, improving skin appearance, reducing pigmentation, evening complexion, and rejuvenating skin.

REDUCED ROSACEA-RELATED ISSUES

REDUCED ROSACEA-RELATED ERYTHEMA

5% AZELACTIVE® face cream significantly reduced (*p<0.05 and **p<0.01) the erythema (redness) index by -5.3% at T28 and -7.7% at T56, demonstrating a strong soothing effect and mitigating the placebo irritating effect.

These findings highlight AZELACTIVE® ability to actively calm skin inflammation and redness, making it particularly beneficial for reactive and rosacea-prone skin. By reducing irritation over time, AZELACTIVE® helps improve skin comfort and resilience, reinforcing its role as a dermocosmetic solution for sensitive skin care.

Graph showing the effect of AZELACTIVE® on reducing erythema (redness) compared to a placebo over 56 days. Results indicate a 7.7% reduction in erythema with AZELACTIVE®, while the placebo group experienced an increase in redness.
Before and after comparison of rosacea-related redness reduction using AZELACTIVE®. The left image (T0) shows initial skin redness, while the right image (T56 Days) demonstrates visible improvement and reduced erythema after 56 days of treatment.

REDUCED ROSACEA-RELATED DEHYDRATION

5% AZELACTIVE® face cream significantly increased (p<0.01) skin hydration over time, with a +16.4% increase at T28 and +26.7% at T56, demonstrating a significantly greater (*p<0.05 and p<0.01) performance than placebo.
 
By reinforcing the skin barrier and preventing moisture loss, AZELACTIVE® helps counteract rosacea-related dehydration, reducing the likelihood of flare-ups, promoting long-lasting hydration and skin suppleness, and effectively restoring the skin to a well-hydrated state by shifting it from a dehydrated condition back to an optimal moisture level.
 
This benefit is essential for maintaining a balanced and resilient skin structure, particularly in sensitive and compromised skin conditions, where barrier dysfunction can exacerbate irritation and redness.
Graph showing the impact of AZELACTIVE® on reducing rosacea-related dehydration. Results indicate a 26.7% increase in skin moisturization after 56 days compared to the placebo group, demonstrating improved skin hydration.

REDUCED ROSACEA-RELATED ISSUES

After 56 days of treatment, volunteers reported that AZELACTIVE® significantly outperformed the placebo across all evaluated parameters.

Its efficacy in reducing redness and warmth sensation, while providing a calming and hydrating effect, highlights its strong dermocosmetic benefits. These results position AZELACTIVE® as an ideal solution for sensitive and rosacea-prone skin, helping to improve overall skin appearance and comfort.

Radar chart comparing the effects of AZELACTIVE® vs. a placebo on rosacea-related symptoms. AZELACTIVE® shows superior improvement in reducing skin redness, warmth sensation, and dryness while enhancing overall skin comfort and hydration.

efficacy tests on scalp

ANTI-HAIR LOSS EFFICACY

In human follicle dermal papilla cells stimulated with Testosterone, 0.1% AZELACTIVE® significantly reduced (***p<0.001) DHT levels by 52%, a key factor in hair thinning, helping to maintain a healthier scalp environment.
 
By limiting excessive DHT accumulation, it helps preserve hair follicle vitality, contributing to stronger and healthier-looking hair.
Graph showing the effect of AZELACTIVE® on DHT levels, a key factor in hair loss. Results indicate a 52% reduction in DHT compared to the untreated group, demonstrating AZELACTIVE®'s potential anti-hair loss benefits.

REGENERATED AND HEALTHY SCALP

AZELACTIVE® promotes human follicle dermal papilla cells proliferation (****p<0.0001) at the tested concentrations, further supporting its role in maintaining a healthy scalp environment.

Beyond reducing hair loss, AZELACTIVE® actively supports scalp renewal by promoting dermal papilla cell proliferation. This enhances follicle vitality, creating the ideal conditions for stronger, healthier hair growth.

Graph showing the impact of AZELACTIVE® on scalp cell viability. Results indicate up to a 14% increase in cell viability at a 1% concentration, demonstrating AZELACTIVE®'s role in promoting scalp health.
  • Sebum regulation – Reduces sebum by -14.7% at T56, balancing oil production for clearer skin and a healthier scalp.
  • Skin tone improvement – Reduces dark spot by +53.5% at T56, significantly reducing hyperpigmentation and improving complexion evenness.
  • Rosacea and redness reduction – Decreases erythema by -7.7% at T56, calming inflammation and improving skin comfort.
  • Scalp health support – Helps control sebum, soothes irritation, and supports follicle vitality up to 115% at 1% concentration
  • Anti-hair loss efficacy – Reduces DHT by -52% at 0.1% concentration, inhibiting 5-α reductase to prevent hair follicle miniaturization.
  • 100% Water-Soluble – No precipitation or solvent dependency.
  • Stable at Any pH – Unlike traditional azelaic acid, it ensures deep penetration and remains effective in various pH environments.
  • Biomimetic & Multifunctional – Inspired by natural processes for superior skin and scalp care.
  • Safe, Biodegradable & Easy to Formulate – Non-irritating and versatile across multiple cosmetic applications.

ORIGIN

Chemical synthesis of natural raw materials

 
   Appearance Liquid
   Colour Yellow
   Odour Characteristic
   pH 2 – 4.5
   Dry residue (105°C) 97 – 99 %
  Solubility Water, Ethanol, Glycerin, Propylene glycol

Ideal for water-based formulations and emulsions.

Suitable for anti-acne, sebum-control, anti-hyperpigmentation, and scalp-care products.

% OF USE: 2 – 25 % (up to 50%)

 

 

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