Actives hydrosolutions

AZELACTIVE®

Patented pH-resistant, water-soluble Azelaic acid polymer for skincare and haircare applications

Anti-Dark Spots – Sebum Regulating & Acne Preventing – Soothing & Anti-Redness – Anti-Hair Loss

INCI name

Azelaic acid/Polyglyceryl-6 copolymer (proposed INCI)

 

 
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Close-up of golden wheat spikes, a natural ingredient used in AZELACTIVE® for skincare.

Water-Soluble Azelaic Acid for Skin & Scalp Health

Azelaic acid is a highly valued dicarboxylic acid recognized for its ability to regulate sebum production, reduce inflammation, and enhance skin brightness. Despite its benefits, traditional forms such as pure azelaic acid and salified derivatives pose challenges related to solubility and stability. While salified versions improve solubility, they tend to be unstable over time, leading to precipitation in formulations. Furthermore, conventional azelaic acid is pH-dependent, limiting its flexibility in cosmetic and pharmaceutical applications.

AZELACTIVE® overcomes these limitations with a patented esterified form of azelaic acid combined with polyglyceryl-6, ensuring full water solubility, superior skin compatibility, and enhanced stability. Its low acid number compared to pure azelaic acid (20 vs 600 mgKOH/g), minimizes irritation while maintaining efficacy allowing for a wider cosmetic application range. Unlike traditional azelaic acid, AZELACTIVE® does not require strong solvents, does not precipitate in formulations, and remains effective at any pH level. These attributes make it an ideal choice for next-generation skincare and haircare solutions.

AZELACTIVE®: TECHNICAL ADVANTAGES

SOLUBILITY

Azelaic acid, naturally insoluble in water and oil, for its formulation traditionally required either strong solvents, unsuitable for cosmetics, or patented delivery systems like liposomes and microemulsions.

Existing salified versions are unstable over time, often leading to precipitation in formulations.

AZELACTIVE® is stable and easy to formulate in various systems, including water-based and emulsion formulations, without requiring solvents to enhance its solubility.

Solubility comparison of azelaic acid in water: on the left, raw azelaic acid powder forms an insoluble, cloudy suspension; on the right, 10% azelaic acid with 25% AZELACTIVE® is fully solubilized in a clear and stable solution.

PH-RESISTANCE

The image shows a 10% Azelaic Acid solution prepared using 25% AZELACTIVE® in water across a wide range of pH.

Unlike salified forms that require strict pH control, AZELACTIVE® is pH-independent, ensuring consistent solubility and enhanced skin penetration across a wide pH range—ideal for flexible use in various cosmetic formulations.

The result is a fully solubilized, clear, and stable system, without precipitation or recristalization.

 

AZELACTIVE®: MULTIFUNCTIONAL BENEFITS

AZELACTIVE® delivers a comprehensive range of benefits for both skin and scalp health. By regulating sebum production, it helps maintain a balanced and healthy skin environment. It also works to reduce hyperpigmentation, enhancing skin tone uniformity and brightness. With its strong anti-inflammatory properties, it soothes irritation and redness, making it particularly suitable for sensitive skin. Additionally, it improves moisture retention and reinforces the skin barrier, promoting long-lasting hydration and resilience.

For scalp and hair applications, AZELACTIVE® demonstrates exceptional efficacy in combating hair loss by inhibiting 5-alpha reductase, thereby reducing DHT levels and preventing follicle miniaturization. It also regulates excessive oil production, ensuring a healthier scalp environment while soothing inflammation and irritation. These combined effects contribute to stronger, healthier hair growth and improved scalp vitality.

efficacy tests on skin

Improved skin tone evenness

REDUCED DARK SPOT PIGMENTATION

5% AZELACTIVE® significantly increased (***p<0.001) ITA° values by 44.4% at T28 up to 53.5% at T56, indicating a lighter skin tone and a reduction in dark spot intensity, markedly superior (**p<0.01) to the placebo, which showed only minimal variation. 
 
AZELACTIVE® effectively reduces dark spot pigmentation, contributing to a clinically relevant improvement in skin clarity and tone homogeneity.
 
These findings reinforce AZELACTIVE® role as a targeted skin-brightening ingredient, making it particularly suitable for formulations addressing hyperpigmentation and uneven complexion.
Graph showing the effectiveness of AZELACTIVE® in reducing dark spots and improving skin tone over 56 days. AZELACTIVE® demonstrates a 44.4% improvement at 28 days and 53.5% at 56 days compared to a placebo.
Before and after comparison of dark spot reduction using AZELACTIVE®. The left image (T0) shows the skin at the beginning of the study, while the right image (T56 Days) demonstrates a visible improvement in skin tone and reduction in dark spot intensity after 56 days.

REDUCED SEBUM CONTENT

5% AZELACTIVE® face cream significantly decreased (***p<0.001) skin sebum content by -12.8% at T28 and -14.7% at T56, showing long-term efficacy, greatly outperforming (**p<0.01) the placebo, which showed only minimal variation.
 
By effectively regulating sebum levels, AZELACTIVE® helps create a healthier, more balanced skin environment, particularly benefiting oily and acne-prone skin.
 
These findings position AZELACTIVE® as a powerful sebum-regulating ingredient, supporting its role in formulations aimed at improving skin texture, reducing shine, and preventing clogged pores.

improved skin complexion evenness

After 56 days of treatment, volunteers reported that AZELACTIVE® significantly improved skin clarity, uniformity, and overall appearance by effectively regulating sebum, reducing pigmentation, and enhancing complexion.
 
By the end of the study, 75% of participants observed visible improvements in skin brightness and tone uniformity, further confirming AZELACTIVE® ability to refine skin texture and correct discoloration.
 
These findings highlight AZELACTIVE® as a multifunctional ingredient, making it particularly effective for oily, uneven, and dull skin, where excess sebum and pigmentation concerns are prevalent.
Radar chart comparing the effects of AZELACTIVE® vs. a placebo on skin health. AZELACTIVE® outperforms the placebo in reducing sebum and oiliness, improving skin appearance, reducing pigmentation, evening complexion, and rejuvenating skin.

REDUCED ROSACEA-RELATED ISSUES

REDUCED ROSACEA-RELATED ERYTHEMA

5% AZELACTIVE® face cream significantly reduced (*p<0.05 and **p<0.01) the erythema (redness) index by -5.3% at T28 and -7.7% at T56, demonstrating a strong soothing effect and mitigating the placebo irritating effect.

These findings highlight AZELACTIVE® ability to actively calm skin inflammation and redness, making it particularly beneficial for reactive and rosacea-prone skin. By reducing irritation over time, AZELACTIVE® helps improve skin comfort and resilience, reinforcing its role as a dermocosmetic solution for sensitive skin care.

Graph showing the effect of AZELACTIVE® on reducing erythema (redness) compared to a placebo over 56 days. Results indicate a 7.7% reduction in erythema with AZELACTIVE®, while the placebo group experienced an increase in redness.
Before and after comparison of rosacea-related redness reduction using AZELACTIVE®. The left image (T0) shows initial skin redness, while the right image (T56 Days) demonstrates visible improvement and reduced erythema after 56 days of treatment.

REDUCED ROSACEA-RELATED DEHYDRATION

5% AZELACTIVE® face cream significantly increased (p<0.01) skin hydration over time, with a +16.4% increase at T28 and +26.7% at T56, demonstrating a significantly greater (*p<0.05 and p<0.01) performance than placebo.
 
By reinforcing the skin barrier and preventing moisture loss, AZELACTIVE® helps counteract rosacea-related dehydration, reducing the likelihood of flare-ups, promoting long-lasting hydration and skin suppleness, and effectively restoring the skin to a well-hydrated state by shifting it from a dehydrated condition back to an optimal moisture level.
 
This benefit is essential for maintaining a balanced and resilient skin structure, particularly in sensitive and compromised skin conditions, where barrier dysfunction can exacerbate irritation and redness.
Graph showing the impact of AZELACTIVE® on reducing rosacea-related dehydration. Results indicate a 26.7% increase in skin moisturization after 56 days compared to the placebo group, demonstrating improved skin hydration.

REDUCED ROSACEA-RELATED ISSUES

After 56 days of treatment, volunteers reported that AZELACTIVE® significantly outperformed the placebo across all evaluated parameters.

Its efficacy in reducing redness and warmth sensation, while providing a calming and hydrating effect, highlights its strong dermocosmetic benefits. These results position AZELACTIVE® as an ideal solution for sensitive and rosacea-prone skin, helping to improve overall skin appearance and comfort.

Radar chart comparing the effects of AZELACTIVE® vs. a placebo on rosacea-related symptoms. AZELACTIVE® shows superior improvement in reducing skin redness, warmth sensation, and dryness while enhancing overall skin comfort and hydration.

efficacy tests on scalp

ANTI-HAIR LOSS EFFICACY

In human follicle dermal papilla cells stimulated with Testosterone, 0.1% AZELACTIVE® significantly reduced (***p<0.001) DHT levels by 52%, a key factor in hair thinning, helping to maintain a healthier scalp environment.
 
By limiting excessive DHT accumulation, it helps preserve hair follicle vitality, contributing to stronger and healthier-looking hair.
Graph showing the effect of AZELACTIVE® on DHT levels, a key factor in hair loss. Results indicate a 52% reduction in DHT compared to the untreated group, demonstrating AZELACTIVE®'s potential anti-hair loss benefits.

REGENERATED AND HEALTHY SCALP

AZELACTIVE® promotes human follicle dermal papilla cells proliferation (****p<0.0001) at the tested concentrations, further supporting its role in maintaining a healthy scalp environment.

Beyond reducing hair loss, AZELACTIVE® actively supports scalp renewal by promoting dermal papilla cell proliferation. This enhances follicle vitality, creating the ideal conditions for stronger, healthier hair growth.

Graph showing the impact of AZELACTIVE® on scalp cell viability. Results indicate up to a 14% increase in cell viability at a 1% concentration, demonstrating AZELACTIVE®'s role in promoting scalp health.
  • Sebum regulation – Reduces sebum by -14.7% at T56, balancing oil production for clearer skin and a healthier scalp.
  • Skin tone improvement – Reduces dark spot by +53.5% at T56, significantly reducing hyperpigmentation and improving complexion evenness.
  • Rosacea and redness reduction – Decreases erythema by -7.7% at T56, calming inflammation and improving skin comfort.
  • Scalp health support – Helps control sebum, soothes irritation, and supports follicle vitality up to 115% at 1% concentration
  • Anti-hair loss efficacy – Reduces DHT by -52% at 0.1% concentration, inhibiting 5-α reductase to prevent hair follicle miniaturization.
  • 100% Water-Soluble – No precipitation or solvent dependency.
  • Stable at Any pH – Unlike traditional azelaic acid, it ensures deep penetration and remains effective in various pH environments.
  • Biomimetic & Multifunctional – Inspired by natural processes for superior skin and scalp care.
  • Safe, Biodegradable & Easy to Formulate – Non-irritating and versatile across multiple cosmetic applications.

ORIGIN

Chemical synthesis of natural raw materials

 
   Appearance Liquid
   Colour Yellow
   Odour Characteristic
   pH 2 – 4.5
   Dry residue (105°C) 97 – 99 %
  Solubility Water, Ethanol, Glycerin, Propylene glycol

Ideal for water-based formulations and emulsions.

Suitable for anti-acne, sebum-control, anti-hyperpigmentation, and scalp-care products.

% OF USE: 2 – 25 % (up to 50%)

 

 

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