Modern emulsifiers are expected to deliver multiple benefits, not only should they efficaciously stabilise emulsion, Formulators want them to have an appealing sensorial profile and deliver skin claims, i.e. hydration and moisture. The following study will prove that SESAMULS© OW have outstanding hydration properties.


Test 2

   INGREDIENT Cream A Cream B
   Sunflower Oil 20.0 20.0
   Water 75.0 70.0
   Glycerin 2.0
   Urea 1.0
   Sodium PCA (50% a.s.) 2.0
   Comparative emulsifier 5.0
   Citric Acid (to pH 5.5) q.s. q.s.

A new emulsion was prepared adding Glycerin, Sodium PCA and Urea to the previous Cream B. Corneometer measurements were taken at 6 time-points over 24 hours (before product application and 0.5, 1, 2 and 24 hours post product application) on 30 female volunteers aged between 35 and 65 (mean 52.3). Treated and untreated sites were measured on the forearm of volunteer. Three measurements were performed on each area and the mean is used to define the hydration state of the stratum corneo.

The significant impact on hydration properties of B emulsion in terms of added moisturizing ingredients it is not sufficient to match the moisturizing effect of the cream A formulated without moisturizing ingredients.

However, hydration levels are not significantly different for sample A and sample B when measured 0.5 and 1 hour after application. Sample A shows significantly higher results 2, 4 and 24 hours after application even in the absence of reportedly powerful humectants like Glycerin, Sodium PCA and Urea.